That snake right by your foot can kill a cow…careful.


November 11, 2009

Big volcanoes, canopying over waterfalls, rappelling, mountain views, swimming in rivers, pineapple fields and poisonous snakes…these are among the adventures in store for you should you decide to visit me. We also have Dengue.

A couple of weeks ago I eagerly traveled to San Jose where I eagerly awaited the arrival of my friend Adam. I couldn’t believe it…my first true days of vacation in the 8 months that I’ve been here were about to begin! My brother came to visit in August, but bless his little heart I was working the entire time. This was going to be different. As soon as Adam arrived, we hopped on the first bus to Miramar, a small town in the mountains, northwest of San Jose near Puntarenas, with gorgeous views of the Nicoya Peninsula.

After a night as the only guests at the hotel/resort, our first day began with a 45 minute horseback ride through the mountains, to the start point of a canopy tour that involved 27 zip-lines over waterfalls.


The other people on the tour were really fun, and the guides were fantastic. We ended up getting a ride back to Puntarenas with one of them, which was amazing because I never get to travel in an actual rental car (I’m always stuck on a hot bus that smells like doo doo).


We ended up getting into San Jose too late to catch a bus to my site, so we stayed the night and traveled to my site first thing the next morning. Now I happen to love my jobs and my life here, but apparently following me around my site can be a little tiring. He bravely tried to communicate with my host family, helped me out in both English class with kindergarten and with my adult class, survived my exercise class, and waited patiently during several meetings. I set aside part of our last day to show him the swimming hole that my youth group took me to a few weeks ago. We had a great time and everything was very relaxing with the exception of a surprise visit from a very very long, fast snake. It jumped 3 feet in the air after we crossed it’s path, and then proceeded to slither into the river that we needed to cross in order to get home. The water was above knee height, and over very large, slippery rocks, so I was definitely uneasy trying to get across but we both made it alive and well. Later on we met up with a Tica friend of mine (who LOVES snakes) and when I described the snake to her she gasped and said, “Oooh, those are really really poisonous! They kill cows!” I may wait a while before heading back to that river.



Needless to say, after trying to get 5 days worth of work done in the 3 days that I would be home, Adam and I were both exhausted by the third day in my site, and ready for the more relaxing part of the vacation – La Fortuna, the town closest to Volcán Arenal. The largest volcano in Costa Rica, Arenal is definitely one of the biggest tourist spots in the country. It was my first time really being a tourist here, and I have to say I did not like it. In my town, I am accepted as a member of the community, and it is rare that people try to take advantage of me and my gringa-ness. In La Fortuna, however, they are used to gringos who have no idea what they are doing, and I hated the fact that I had to prove to everyone that I am familiar with the culture here in order to not be scammed or cheated. That being said, we had a great time visiting the volcano, visiting one of the largest waterfalls in CR, swimming in hot springs, going down waterslides that should be illegal, and walking around town to look at shops and try different restaurants (none of the food was a good as my Mama Tica’s).

I love having visitors but man it is hard when they leave! I get rather used to not having people from home around, but then when I get a little taste home I miss everything and everyone so much more when I am stripped of it once more. Don’t get me wrong, it is DEFINITELY worth the pain afterwards to have visitors, but bouncing back into my reality here is a little bit tricky.
Now I am back into the work scene full swing, trying to finish up projects before the end of the school year (December 22) and before my Aunts Mary and Margret, my Uncle Ed and my brother come to visit for their hottest Christmas ever (woot)!

So…like…what do you DO exactly???



I often write a lot about very little, instead of offering up how it is that I actually spend the majority of my time. So, here’s a little bit about a lot - a summary of the projects I have going on right now to give a slightly better answer to the popular question above.

Most of my days are spent walking (very fast, I’m told) from one place to another, doing work jobs that are often completely unrelated to each other. Here is a sample daily schedule, taken from Monday of this week:

5-5:30am: Wakeup, cook/eat a HUGE bowl of oatmeal with raisins and mango

5:30-6am: Cold shower, get dressed, gather materials for all projects for the day

6:20-6:30am: Walk to the elementary school

6:30-7am: Practice hip hop dance with my 5th graders who are not remotely ready for their 7am performance, but it will still be better than all the other performances (sorry, but it’s true)

7-8am: Perform with my kids because not enough students showed up, and watch the other performance for the acto civico (civics act)

8am-11:30am: Arrive 30 minutes late to the training at child protective services (which is okay because we don’t start until 30 minutes after I arrive), participate in the training, and apologize profusely that I cannot stay for juice and ham sandwiches with ALL the mayonnaise (I had planned on the training starting on time, which was just plain dumb of me)

11:30-11:50pm: Speed walk to the school (again), carrying an umbrella to protect me from the beaming, steaming, angry sun.

11:50-12pm: Quickly Coordinate with school counselor and 6th grade teachers regarding 5 antiviolence workshops that use art to promote peace

12-12:30pm: Help my group of high school girls with their costumes and makeup for a performance about values at the elementary school

12:30-1pm: Watch and assist with the performance

1-1:30: Walk/run home, put a boiled egg in my mouth and grab an apple (which was probably imported from the US and so it’s already soft and disappointing), change my clothes because I’ve been sweating too much already, grab materials for the rest of the day.

2-3pm: Hustle over to the place where I make copies (i.e. spend all my money), spend 30 minutes revising my diagnostic of the community (a 40 page document we write, in Spanish, to give to community members with whom we work), quickly plan English class, pick up my copies, and make my way over to the other elementary school, which is much smaller and has very few resources (see photo above).

3-5pm: Facilitate a meeting of Chicas Poderosas (Powerful Girls) with the 5th and 6th grade girls. Today is the first meeting, for which I spent most of the weekend planning and preparing materials. The project will last until the end of December, and each week includes activities about a different theme (e.g. leadership, communication skills, sexuality, gender, exercise and nutrition, boyfriends, working in a group, etc.).

5-5:30: Walk/run back to the first elementary school

5:30-7:30: Teach English to a group of adults/high school students

8:00pm: Arrive home and immediately grab jump rope and resistance bands

8-9pm: Workout in front of my host sister’s house because it is nice and hidden and people stop and watch me everywhere else. I’m sad because she is moving in 2 weeks!

9-9:30: Cold shower (feels sooooo good), eat a big bowl of beans, an egg cooked with cauliflower or green beans, and salad, and talk to host parents.

9:30-10:30: Go to my room and plan/prepare materials for tomorrow’s adventures

10:30-11: Read about 5 pages of whatever book I am currently reading (The Red Tent by Anita Diamant right now) before pass out with the fan on full blast.

Here are some of the projects I’m working on right now:

In the colegio (high school) I am still trying to finish up the mentor program. I am trying to start a women’s soccer team for next school year (which starts in February), so we’ll see how that goes. I also still have my 10th grade girl’s dance group. I’m teaching them hip hop right now, which would sound ridiculous to anyone in the States who has ever seen me dance hip hop, but here most kids have hardly even seen hip hop dance, so they don’t know that I’m terrible at it (and I’d like to keep it that way). The Patronato Nacional de la Infacia (PANI), or our equivalent to Child Protective Services, just asked me to choreograph a piece so my girls can perform at a huge recreation and cultural diversity event they are hosting.

In one of my elementary schools I just started a group called Chicas Poderosas, which originally created by another PC volunteer several years ago, and is now used throughout Peace Corps Costa Rica to empower 5th and 6th grade girls as they engage in a 12 weeks series of activities related to self-esteem, communication skills, sexuality, nutrition and exercise, working in groups, leadership, service, etc. The group I have is definitely more challenging than they are innocent and easy-going, but I like it that way, and think that if I can keep them engaged then they will benefit more from the program than would an easier group. The conditions in this school are completely unsatisfactory, which has also been a challenge. Yesterday I was left without a key (long story, but not my fault), so we had to get creative in order to find a meeting space. One of the walls of the cafeteria is much shorter than the others and is no longer enclosed with wire, so we had to throw one girl over the wall. She then found a small desk inside and climbed one of the tables to pass the desk over to us on the outside. We then used this desk to help get all of the other girls over the wall more easily, leaving me at the end to get the desk back over and haul myself over the wall. We then held a pretty successful meeting in the very wet, rainy, and muddy cafeteria, and then went outside to the muddy plaza where they taught me a bunch of games I had never played before, and ended with about 30 minutes of straight up foot races (bare foot races, of course, which involved removal of some pretty big thorns). And now I’m back to saying a lot about really little….

At the other elementary school I am working on a series of workshops called Art for Peace, which combine nonviolence teachings with art projects, and will end in a big regional event that is being organized by some volunteers who live about an hour away from me. I just finished teaching dance to a group of 5th graders for a school-wide civics performance, and I’m still of course teaching English to kindergarten every week. I taught them how to play “I Spy” today, which was a big hit. In one of my classes is a girl who is a girl who is quite high on the autism spectrum, and the understanding, patience, and sensitivity displayed by these 6 year olds in response to her needs is truly something to be admired.

In the shantytown my youth group is going strong. We went to the river the other day, and besides nearly giving me a heart attack every time one of them did a back flip off of a cliff, it was a wonderful time. They took me on about an hour-long walk deep into a valley and across a wirey bridge that has a sign warning that no more than 2 people cross at the same time, to a beautiful swimming hole where the water was deliciously cold. It is the first time I can remember being cold here. I took great pleasure in spending the day walking, swimming, laughing and eating cookies, with a group of kids who are smart, witty, fun, and full of energy. It is such a shame that most of them have dropped out of school, but I’m hoping that being a part of this group, which usually includes participation in nonformal educational activities, will inspire them to go back in February. Several of them have already told me that that’s their plan, so we’ll see what happens. My community meetings with the adults are less frequent these days but when they happen they are productive. Some ideas we are playing with right now: community fruit and vegetable garden, dance marathon at the colegio to raise funds they need for paperwork to apply for government housing, community bike ride to the river.

My adult English class has now started in full-swing. I teach twice a week, and even though I don’t typically like teaching English, this is the first group of people I met in my town, when I came to visit the volunteer I replaced, even before I knew I would eventually live here. They are incredibly motivated and wonderful company, so I love teaching them simply because it allows me to be in their company.

I’m still teaching exercise classes twice a week in the community center (or shack). I love all of my jobs, but this one might be my favorite because it relieves me of my stress while the others (wonderful as they are) often bring me a great deal of stress. I usually have about 20 people come to class, which I’m happy with because people here do not typically like to do exercise on purpose.

I’m trying to plan either a recreation camp (tennis, swimming, dance, basketball) or a triathlon camp for the end of January with one of the high-ups from the pineapple company here. Hopefully it will happen. I’m also starting to talk to the Community Development Association of a neighboring town, trying to see if I can get a playground built next to the basketball/soccer court that was initiated by the volunteer I replaced. More to come on both of those…..

Other smaller projects are always going on, but those are the biggies at the moment. Each day presents new little challenges, mistakes, and successes, and all of them build on each other in order to make this one gigantic learning experience. Okay, it is WAY past my 9pm bedtime, so this needs to end. If you made it this far in this blog entry I would like to congratulate you. Tuanis!

Hot Rica


As is typically the case in my town, it was real hot today. As I sit here sweating in my bed, unable to concentrate on work, I thought I’d write to you all about it.

You know you live in a hot place when…
…you sleep with an ice pack.

…you have to change your clothes at least 2 or 3 times a day from sweating so much.

…people who have lived there all their lives STILL complain about the heat constantly.

…it is 78 F and people are bundling up and talking about how cold it is.

…you don’t EVER miss (or even want to think about) having hot water.

…you are served hot soup or beans, and you have to put them in the refrigerator to cool them because they stay too hot at room temperature.

…freezers hardly ever fully freeze anything.

…you take a shower and the water that is freezing cold when it hits your head is warm by the time it gets to your legs and feet.

…you start sweating again even before stepping out of a cold shower.

…you have to wake up at 5am to exercise in remotely moderate temperatures because the sun is kickin’ by 6am.

…clothes hung out to dry are ready well before noon.

…not having a fan on you is like not having oxygen in the air.

…when comparing medical problems of PC volunteers in your country versus those in the rest of Latin America our medical officer says (and I quote): “As you can see we are winning in the ‘gina-cological’ conditions. That's probably because it's very hot and humid here."

Honesty is a virtue…right???

When it comes to commenting on one’s physical appearance, Americans tend to let their positive feelings be known, and to keep their critical opinions to themselves, or wait to talk about the person behind his/her back. Ticos, on the other hand, will not hesitate to comment on your physical appearance right to your face. I find it funny that in our Peace Corps training we learn that Tico culture is indirect, because I personally could not find them to be more direct. Obviously I am writing this because I have an example to share, and the story is actually very, very short. It goes like this: A friend of mine stopped by my house the other day after we hadn’t seen each other in about 2 weeks. Here’s how our conversation went:

Ana: Hi, how are you? What have you been doing lately?
Me: I’m good, just been working a lot. I’ve been sitting in front of the computer writing a huge report for the last couple of days.
Ana: Oh yea, I can tell you haven’t been exercising, cuz your face got all fat and stuff.
Me: Ummm…ok.

I mean, what can you say when someone says something is wrong with you face? Nothing, absolutely nothing. The thing is, I know she didn’t mean it to be offensive at all, but it just so happens they don’t tend to be offended when someone says they’re fatter, they just accept it, whereas we, well, do get offended. Here, telling someone they are fat is like us telling them they are wearing a green shirt – it’s not bad or good, it just is. Part of me wants to fully embrace the straight-up, brutally honest approach to body image, while the other part of me finds it to be a little unnecessary. Everyone is entitled to express their thoughts and feelings…I guess.

Mis Pollitos!


I love my job. This started out as a bunch of high school girls in my exercise class asking me to teach them the “Thriller” dance for their music class. Then they mixed Michael’s tune with contemporary music, and we worked together to make it fit the theme of “values” so as to enter their performance in a competition for “Arte por la Paz,” (Art for Peace), in which students of all ages from all over the country participate in arts-related projects that promote peace.

In this performance, one of the girls is having a nightmare that zombies (which represent violence in modern-day culture) are taking away her values and replacing them with anti-values, but I pretty much just had the memory card space for the Thriller part…you can just picture it all being very deep and stuff. Enjoy.

Those Magic Changes...

As I sit in my living room, watching two lizards run up and down the pale green wall next to me, and listening to another one make a screeching sound as it hides behind the map of the Americas above my head, I do not flinch. When I first encountered the little creatures, which find their way into each and every dwelling in my town and most others in Costa Rica, I was fascinated by them, and startled by their quick little steps and far-from-discrete nighttime noises. My newfound apathy for them is just one of many examples as to how my thoughts and behaviors have been altered by constant exposure to Tico life. So, I figured I’d just make a list off the top of my head of different ways in which my life or I have changed during these first 6 months in Costa Rica:

1. I eat just about every meal/food with a spoon instead of a fork and knife
2. I say “mamita” and “mi amor” on a regular basis
3. I brush my teeth about 4-5 times a day. I have always been a big fan of oral
hygiene, but here the norm is to bring toothbrush and toothpaste to work and
school, so that you can always brush after lunch and cafecito
4. Every day I speak more Spanish than I do English
5. I sweat ALL the time
6. People call me “machita” (“little blonde girl”)everywhere I go.
7. I eat a huge bowl of beans at EVERY lunch and dinner
8. All of my dirty clothes get washed and ironed every single day (I finally
convinced my host mom and sister that my workout clothes and underwear do not
need
to be ironed)
9. My clothes get ironed…period
10.Instead of running every day I jump rope every day (like Rocky)
11.I teach exercise and English classes
12.I live with little kids
13.People stare at me all the time (being a gringa here is kind of like being a
pretty circus freak)
14.God is referenced in nearly every conversation/social interaction I have
15.A group of high school girls asked me to teach them a choreographed dance (for
those who don’t know me, I would be an absolutely absurd candidate for such a job
in the States)
16.I wear business-casual clothing on a regular basis (who knew that my impressive
24 years of avoiding work clothes would come to an end during my Peace Corps
service)?
17.I am considered tall.
18.People offer me food all the time
19.I never pay for pineapple…cuz it’s everywhere.
20.I am an auntie

Ok, I could easily spend days adding to this list, there are just soooo many.

I Love My Little Brother


August 21, 2009


Hi party people, sorry for the delay in posts…I promise it’s not that I don’t think of you all often, it’s just that I live in the jungle (‘cept not really).


I am currently in my host sister’s house, where I’ve been sleeping the past couple of nights while her husband gets some tests done in the nearest hospital (which is an hour and a half away). She has a baby and a 5 year old son, and like many Ticos she does not like to be alone, so I’m keeping her company at night. She and her 2 sons are sleeping in her bed and I’m sleeping in the 5-year-old’s bed, which is, umm…let’s say…different. My feet just stay on at the end, so the fit is just fine, but the mattress is definitely just for show, because it doesn’t do anything. If sleeping on hard surfaces is as good as they say it is for one’s back, this kid is going to have the healthiest back there ever was. In any case, I’m happy that I can be here for my host sister, and I hope they can find out what’s going on with my host brother-in-law and get him home feeling better very soon. We definitely miss him around here. Also, I think his bed had bedbugs, which is disgusting, but I definitely woke up with, uhh, problems (I’ll leave it at that).


I cannot believe that I haven’t written in a month! A lot has happened since then of course, the highlight being my little brother’s visit, which sadly ended last week. After 5 months without seeing each other, neither one of us could believe that we were actually together. On the day of his arrival I went to San Jose to meet him at the airport, and my bus was making extremely good time (we were going to arrive in 4 rather than 5 hours). That is, until it smashed into a pickup truck that pulled out in front of us. After seeing glass fly everywhere outside of the bus (we were all fine, hardly even felt it), I heard about 5 or 6 more vehicles smashing into each other behind us, which was pretty scary. After hearing that everyone was miraculously okay, I boarded another bus and carried on to San Jose, thankfully still getting to the airport on time. It was so wonderful to see my favorite boy in the whole world, and his Irish-Catholic whiteness was beyond blinding. I mean, this boy is W-H-I-T-E! I have never felt so tan in my life as I did during his trip. It was fabulous.


So as not to waste any time in the miserable city of San Jose, we immediately set off for a beach located about 2 hours from where I live. This came as a surprise to my brother, who thought we were only going to my site and San Jose (I’m so sneaky). Although it rained our entire full day at the beach, we still had a good time catching up and just being together. During one downpour I decided I wanted to try running (which I haven’t been able to do since January due to an injury), so we set out into the rainy jungle to see how it would go. The scenery was so beautiful that it wasn’t until we were a couple of miles in that I realized I was not, in fact, ready to run yet.

The next day we set off to my site, which was certainly the best part of his stay in my opinion (and I think he would agree). I loved introducing him to my friends and family here. Everyone was quite impressed by his Spanish, and it was nice to see how happy he was to be putting it into practice. My host mom was thrilled to have someone who could eat an entire table full of food (so she proceeded to fill the entire table for him at every meal). She nearly died of embarrassment when my brother insisted on helping wash the dishes, but it was a good opportunity to show the anti-machismo ways of my family in the States.


We stayed in my site for 6 days and 5 nights, and my brother got to experience my daily life to the fullest. He took my exercise classes in the Baptist church and in the community center, attended meetings in the high school and with various community members, helped paint traditional masks with a group of kids in the elementary school, entertained the younger kids who showed up to my meeting for adolescents in the shantytown, sipped cafecito, and ate lots and lots of traditional Tico foods. The pic at the top of this post is from the hike we went on with my mentorship program from the high school. My brother is the large white one.


His last week here was unfortunately consumed by a conference that I had in San Jose. The conference was about service learning and solitary volunteerism, and how to introduce these concepts to our communities.

Community service is generally a good thing, but its impact is much more profound when 1) the project idea comes from the people who will benefit 2) the volunteers and community are informed about the project, including its origins, consequences, and future steps to maintain or improve its effects. These are the kinds of components that separate “community service” projects (e.g. taking a science class to a river to pick up trash) from “service learning” projects (asking a science class to analyze the strengths and weaknesses of their community, seeing that they identify the dirty river as a primary concern, teaching them about how rivers affect communities and the consequences of contamination, taking those who are interested to the river to clean it, and meeting afterwards to celebrate the project’s success and to form a plan of action to keep the river clean). While community service is something that is valued by many people in the U.S. (so much so that an entire government institution - Peace Corps - is dedicated to its implementation in countries all over the world), it is not a common value here. This is not to say that Ticos are not generous nor that they do not want to help others – they are by far the most generous people I have ever met – but rather that the idea of community service is not something that has not yet infiltrated the culture. Peace Corps Costa Rica has made service learning a primary concern, with the ultimate goal-of-goals being the implementation of a corps of Tico volunteers who work for Ticos (i.e. the equivalent of AmeriCorps in the U.S., but in Costa Rica).


In any case, it was too bad that my brother had to come to the conference with me and my community counterpart (the high school counselor), but the 3 of us had a good time together along with the other 14 volunteers and their counterparts, and I learned a lot about how to work more effectively in my community. It would be awesome to see the creation of a Tico Corps in the coming years.